Being back on the longboard was a like a vacation. Paddled to the outside in one sec. Zipped around to catch outside peelers. Had one of the those mellow low tide sessions with just Max, Ryan and a couple other people out, catching almost any wave I wanted and speeding down the line. Had a super fun one that grew in size as I dropped, went right for a while, then did a slow turn and went left, scooted up towards the nose of my board and trimmed high on the wave until kicking out in probably less than a foot of water. Woo! Max was on his 9’6″ which is the seventh board he’s been on in seven sessions. I love the challenge of shortboarding and it’ll be fun to get better at it as I put more time in, but I do love my longboard and the glide and ease of it all. What a blast.
#221 / 1:30pm / HP1
[Regional Summary: WNW swell continues to rebuild this afternoon as the tide drops out. Surf is in the waist-head high range at good spots while standouts go 1-2′ overhead on the best sets. Winds are from the WNW-West so conditions through town remain mostly clean.]
2ft at 15s WNW (299°)
1ft at 12s WNW (283°)
1ft at 12s SSW (198°)