Looking forward to more offshore 2-3′ waves at LM today and it delivered. Somewhat inconsistent with some lulls, but still enough waves to have some fun. More power today too which is always good. Lined up to TB. Got the first one to my surprise. Waves that lined up but didn’t work yesterday were working today. I looked for the longest ones that started to the south or north. We were too far out at one point. Max moved farther inside. I was having luck on the outside of TB. Not too crowded. Got some waves! One short, good right to start it off, two straight-aheads to avoid the crashing foam behind me, one steep drop and swoopy right turn, then left (got a hoot and shaka from a guy on the inside). Lots of spray off those waves. Tried to go hard right but it was a wall of spray and breaking wave on one. Occasionally today, you just had to just stand on the inside and duck through a closeout set. Near the end, Max went into the beach. He was having an off-day, cold from the wrong wetsuit. I waited and paddled north to stay in position. Got a nice right before sliding off on the inside foam. On the way in, caught an inside bonus left. Felt strong and calm… in tune with the ocean today. Hands stayed warm inside 1.5mm gloves. Today was Dad’s 75th birthday and when we talked on the phone, they had eaten at Chez Francois and were taking a long walk through Great Falls as Max and I were getting ready to head out to surf. Fun to think of them walking while we were surfing. Turned out to be one of my best sessions at LM so far.
#293 / 1:15pm / Just after low. 2′ rising / 8′ Revolver
[Regional Summary: Long period, inconsistent new WNW groundswell is on the rise through the day. Better breaks are running waist-chest-shoulder high, as long period winter focal points push up into the 4-6’+ range on the best sets. Winds are light offshore for clean conditions as the tide drops from a predawn high of nearly 6′ towards a modest 1.45′ low at 12pm.]
3ft at 10s W (279°)
2ft at 20s WNW (290°)
2ft at 7s NW (325°)
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