Otherworldly early morning light glowed in the sky, illuminating the silhouettes of the houses on the hills as we drove down to Pacifica this morning at 6:30am, earlier than we ever have. Parked in the south lot. Watched the conditions as we ate quickly. Stood on the shore with Max and waited for the oncoming set to end. Windswell lines rolled in with at least 8 waves that set. Paddled to the outside and then south to lineup with the two guys on longboards. The guy on the orange board had gotten some good lefts there while we suited up and I was still thinking about Monday’s nice left. Said hi to the two guys and chatted for a few. I was already stoked from the cold water and early morning paddle out. There was a lot of chop and texture from the windswell and it made it all the more exciting to paddle over steep oncoming sections. Waited for the right wave. Watched. Waited. Then I lined up to an oncoming rising left, caught it, turned and zipped left almost all the way to shore on one of my longest lefts at LM. Yes! Saw Max catch a ride when I turned around once. Got another shorter left on the way in, and a speedy reform right after that all the way to the beach. Made it to work for a 10am meeting. Stoked all day.
#252 / 7:20am / HP1
[Regional Summary: Small NW windswell and onshore S to SW wind prevails for most spots this morning. We also have a small SSW Southern Hemi swell mix on a slow building trend. The end result is most breaks are seeing junky 2-3’+ surf, with waves up to chest-shoulder high at standouts.]
3-4′ / 4′ @ 6s NW 311