Another great day surfing Canoes. Sets seemed to be rolling in faster than yesterday. After going for some smaller waves for the first hour, I decided to paddle out farther and try to catch some of the bigger waves. After paddling for about five minutes, I got to the outer break and waited with the other surfers until the next set. I turned and paddled into a wave at just the right spot, popped up and felt its force as I leaned into it to stay balanced. It was probably the fastest wave I’ve been on so far in Hawaii. When I took off, a stand up paddler was suddenly right next to me and we both swooshed forward at the same time. He called out, “whoa! I don’t know how to turn” and I laughed and said, “neither do I!” Since his board was heading at an angle straight towards mine, I pulled back off my board so he didn’t run into me. It was a great ride and my first “real” wave at Canoes! Can’t wait to go out again tomorrow.
#30 / 1:15 pm
[Tofu benedict and potatoes at Lulu’s]