Had a good weekend visiting Sup Yi Ma and doing our 3.5 hour hike from SOMA to Twin Peaks and back, but I was ready for some water time after a week out. Supposed to be fair, 3-4′ and it looked bigger when we arrived. I headed out to the south end. Brain was preoccupied with work stuff and just wasn’t quite clicking today for me. Bigger out there than it looked from land, but then it was dumping right onto the shallows. Still, there was the bearded guy (that looks like Dave’s brother) on the inside, just getting right after right. I could see his lineup but there were already quite a few surfers around him. Seemed like I was too far out, or too far over, or the wave I was trying to ride had no face but just onto the sand. Wiped out hard a couple of times. Managed to get two rides. One which I almost got bumped off of, as if it steeped up and tried to buck me off. A girl with her shortboard saw that ride and in the lineup afterwards, she commented, “that was a weird wave!” Totally. I can say the waves were weird (tricky NW) but it was really my headspace. Hasn’t happened but a few times in all these sessions, but today I just couldn’t clear out the land noise and get in rhythm. Eep.
#389 / 12 (45) / 2′ dropping / 7′4 Mitsven Egg
3-4 ft +- waist to shoulder high
POOR TO FAIR CONDITIONS
Afternoon Report for SF-San Mateo County: NW windswell continues to slowly wind down through the day, as new longer period SSW swell creeps up for select exposures. Better breaks through the region are in the waist-shoulder high zone, as top exposures go head high to slightly better at times. Light+moderate NW winds for some bump.
6ft at 9s NW (316°)
1ft at 20s S (187°)
1ft at 11s SSW (200°)