Fun left.

Fun left. Photo by Max.

So much fun today! Felt like SoCal. Not only was it perfect, mellow, knee to chest-high waves and a clean 12 seconds west, I finally got my rhythm back. Waves were nonstop on the south end. Even though the lineup and beach were packed on a sunny warm Saturday, once I paddled out, I found a sweet spot (in front of the “river”) where it was just myself, two longboarders and a SUP. There were plenty of waves to go around. Lost track of how many fun rides I had. So stoked. Max is resting his shoulder/trapezoid and took the photos from the beach. Wish he had been able to surf today. He would’ve loved it.

Small, sweet right.

Small, sweet right. Photo by Max.

#149 / 3pm

[3-4 ft + waist to shoulder high. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY: WNW(280-300) groundswell on the fade today but still offering up plenty of decent-sized waves for exposed areas. Head high to overhead+ waves show early, while top breaks can occasionally see sets to nearly double overhead. Expect these sizes to wind down as we move through the day. Offshore wind early for smooth, clean conditions.]