The big launch went well last week and I kept thinking I’d get back in the water to celebrate but between sleep, windy conditions and life, it didn’t happen. Last night, I told Max I just had to get in the water once before we head to HI. Something stuck in my head about needing to feel submerged in cold water before the tropics. Being out of the water too long makes me weird. Alarm went off at 6am and I jumped up and headed down. Foggy like it’s been on the drive down. Love the solitude of the early morning. Fewer cars, fewer people. Tide was at 0ft so nothing on the south end but a few north of the pumphouse. Didn’t expect any waves at all actually. But like usual, nothing looks the same from the car as when you’re finally standing on the sand at the water’s edge. From there it looked like there were some catchable lines coming through right out front past the immediate shorebreak. Picked my lineup and paddled out on the Po. Stepping into the water… ahh. Already happy. Got a couple of reform-y rides right near shore. Even more happy now. Getting used to the Po quickly. Waited through a lull and watched the seagulls fly by. Fog still on the horizon preventing the wind. Oddly warm for early morning in June. Saw a nice line approaching that looked like a left. Got in position, scooted up a bit farther on the board (still getting used to that spot), paddled, popped up and surprised myself with my first little left on the Po. Weee.
#329 / 7 (40) / 0′ rising / Max’s 6’2 Po
2ft at 7s WNW (284°)
1ft at 6s NW (321°)
0ft at 15s SW (229°)