Stressful few weeks with more stress the past few days. Went to bed last night promising I’d do something for myself and get up and go surf, even with Sunday crowds, just to clear my head and get some endorphins. Drive down was shrouded in heavy fog. Saw a few cars pass me with boards. Lot was already full and I luckily pulled right into the last beach-front spot. Could barely see the lineup but plenty of surfers were suited up and headed out. Fog cleared for a moment and I could see the high tide and a gazillion surfers near the pumphouse. Couldn’t see the south end at all. Ate two bananas and headed south with my Po. Upon approach, more was visible. Toes were cold. Jumped up and down on the sand to get the body temp up. Picked a lineup and paddled out. Board felt good. I was already having fun just being in the water, floating, seeing other surfers. The high tide and choppy waves made it hard to pick the right ones. A bit too far out at first. Caught a couple super short standups and kinda fell off the back on both. Leaned more forward on the next. Nearby a girl with short hair was getting some good inside ones on her longboard. I moved around the lineup a bit more north. Got a high-on-the-lip short ride in. Stood on the beach for a bit, watching the waves and debating whether I was ready to go in. Eh, it’s Sunday. Saw a possible good spot and paddled back out. Waited for the right line to steep up, paddled for it, and got a fast right. On the wave until a shortboarder riding left came towards me. We both ended our rides. Short but so fun. Counting that as my first right on the Po. WOO. Max and I went to Sunset for veggie potstickers, green onion pancakes and Andytown after for more Sunday pleasures.
At one point during a lull, I looked to the north and all I could see in the gray fog, dotting all the way into the distance, were the heads/torsos of surfers in black wetsuits sitting on boards. No horizon, no mountains in the background, no differentiation between the air/sky/water… just people in neoprene in the thick fog. #lovemytribe
#359 / 8:20 (1.5) / 4′ rising / Custom Ebert 6’2 Po
3-4 ft +- waist to shoulder high
POOR TO FAIR CONDITIONS
PM Report and Short-Term Forecast for SF-San Mateo County: A fun-sized combination of WNW swell, NW windswell and minor SSW energy prevails this afternoon. Chest-head high waves show at average areas, while top breaks see overhead sets. Onshore westerly wind now along with some bump and crumble to the ocean surface. The tide drops through the remainder of the afternoon and into the evening.
3ft at 11s WNW (288°)
3ft at 6s NW (311°)
2ft at 8s W (266°)