Had one of my best sessions ever today at Canoes. I paddled directly to the outer break, hung back to take some photos first, then paddled through the final break to wait in the lineup. The first couple of waves of the set rolled through and I waited it out. Then on the third, I turned and started paddling with several other surfers. Caught the wave at just the right moment, pearling a tiny bit, pulled back and popped up and looked straight ahead and rode it for awhile before pulling back when the guy next to me started to turn into my path (he couldn’t see me since he was regular foot as well). The wave was perfect and forceful enough that had I stayed on, I could have rode for probably ten seconds more and done a few turns. This session, I was trying to be more focused in terms of paddling into position, waiting for the right wave, then heading back to the same spot. As a result, I got four more excellent waves in the span of an hour. Stoked! Also saw my first surfing dog in real life – a cute pug with a little blue flower vest. :)
#52 / 5:15pm
[2.5-3 ft. @14 seconds (Magic Seaweed). Surfline was only calling for 1-2 ft, which it clearly wasn’t! Light east winds with a slight chop. Small long period swell from the south.]