Glad Max said to go out today even though I was indecisive after seeing a huge overhead outside set roll through a couple of hours earlier. It was supposed to be increasing in size as the day progressed with a new long-period WNW swell. Figured at the very least I was going to paddle out and watch a set… only try for waves that seemed doable. Turns out I was amped as soon as I paddled out. Back in the zone. Sometimes it just takes getting in the water to remember everything. Plus, things never look quite the same from shore. Once out, it was unusually windy with texture to the surface, also offshore and sunny. Lots of squinting and watching light glittering in the offshore spray as you paddled back out. Gorgeous and a good workout with regular sets coming through. I picked a similar lineup to Monday’s similar conditions and remembered that the peak visually swung to the left as it approached. Got some fun, shorter waves and one speedy, long SH right caught just in front of the peak. YES. Max was out with his 7’3 today and getting used to it. Conditions might be similar tomorrow. Can’t wait to find out.
#210 / 2:30pm / HP1
[Regional Summary: Old WNW swell fades as new, long-period WNW(285-300+) groundswell buids in through the day. Chest-head high waves work through at exposed breaks, while top spots see larger overhead sets, especially as we move into the afternoon. Fairly light wind early for decent surface conditions, and the tide hits a 5.53′ HIGH just after 9am.]
3ft at 16s WNW (292°)
1ft at 12s SSW (196°)
0ft at 8s S (187°)