Finally got out again after a week without surfing. Last week was actually really big with a WNW swell and wave forecasts up to 10′. Today was really mellow and low tide. Caught two waves (and another on my knee going left for a bit), and spent a lot of time paddling. Tried the spot farther north but ended up in a bit of the cross-tide area and moved south again. Felt strong. Still liking my board but not popping up as smoothly as I did on the Mitsu (yet!).
#24 / 3 pm
[3-4 ft. + waist to shoulder high and poor-fair conditions.
PM REGIONAL OVERVIEW: Leftover WNW/SW swell mix prevails this afternoon. Better exposures are in the waist-chest-head high range, while top exposures pull in some plus sets at times. Conditions remain fairly bumpy and disorganized, with select spots seeing inconsistent workable corners.]
[Evol bean burrito, banana. After, protein smoothie and tofurky sandwich]