There aren’t that many days that Surfline deems green or fair at LM, but today turned out to be one of them. This morning was supposed to be slight offshore with some decent WNW swell. There was some wind by the time we made it down to the beach but still some lines holding up and unusually warm given the colder temps this week. Max was sitting it out today to give his knee a break, and I was indecisive – go out? Skip it? Looked like mostly closeouts with a few corners. Lots of shorebreak wash. Spoiled by recent Capitola sessions. Finally realized I had to go out or I would regret it later. Max went to do some errands and I headed out. Waited for a lull between sets, paddled out easily. Said hi to the two guys near me: a shortboarder to the south; a longboarder to the north. Sat and soaked in the scene. Waited for no more than five minutes when I went for one – a long line that formed from the south and rolled in. Paddled hard, got it and went right. Saw the wave near my shoulder and the spray. Paddled back out quickly totally stoked. Got another two rides after that, both with some size and speed. Got caught on the inside after one ride and had to dive under through the whole set. Phew. But then there was also the perfectly timed paddle back out, just making it over each oncoming wave, remembering to breathe, and finally making it to the outside to sit up, feeling good. LM makes you work harder for your waves for sure. Stoked I got those three. Hope Max is back in the water soon!
#285 / 2pm / 2′ low / 8′ Revolver
[Regional Summary: WNW-NW swell-mix and trace SW swell prevail this afternoon with a dropping tide and just light onshore winds. Waist-chest high waves are pretty common with sets to shoulder-head high at standouts.]
2-3 ft +- thigh to chest high occ. 4 ft.
4ft 9s WNW (302°)
3ft 11s WNW (295°)
1ft 16s SW (229°)
1ft 12s SW (227°)