Max and I had a short window of time this morning before a meeting and sped down to Linda Mar. It was another beautiful day, a bit cooler but still in the upper 70s and sunny. The waves were forming long lines from north to south, with some closeouts in the middle, but sizable and fast with offshore winds. We opted for a peak to ourselves at the south end that we spotted breaking right and left. It was an easy paddle out and as soon I sat up, I was already stoked just to be out in the water again after a day off. Within minutes a sweet set wave came in and I got a nice left. At the end of the ride, I practiced cross stepping for the first time to the back of my board. We’ve been watching endless longboard movies (Longboard TV and Wingnut’s series on TheSurfNetwork) and it’s been inspiring and educational. I don’t care how long it takes me. One day, I’ll get barreled on my longboard in an overhead wave and one day, I’ll hang ten! We ended the sesh after forty minutes to make our meeting, psyched to get three rides each. It was a fast but memorable session, marked by good wave karma and the euphoria that comes from being in the ocean on a beautiful day.
As a bonus, we saw Greg catch a big wave and almost go to the nose, then Rick got a smooth ride and did a left to right swooping turn. Later in the evening we met up for our first Pedro Point Surf Club meeting. Such a friendly, diverse group of surfers. Good times!
#122 / 10am
[4-5 ft shoulder to head high occ. 6 ft. POOR TO FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY: This afternoon there’s a slow easing NW-WNW(280-310+) swell mix and some small SSW groundswell, with waist-shoulder-head high zone surf at most exposures. Top breaks are seeing overhead sets. Light+moderate SW winds in the early afternoon for some building bump at exposed spots. The tide hit a 6.5’+ high around noon.]