Beach hazard statement this morning until Saturday afternoon from Sonoma down to Monterey for west facing beaches. From the cam, couldn’t see anyone at the north end this morning but dots on the south end. Once there, you could see the long period swell and low tide meant big lines that rolled up on the north end and slammed onto the beach. The offshore (ESE) wind created a thick spray off each wave like usual, but this time there was a visible rainbow and an orange tint. Beautiful. Way out in the distance you could see the mixed West swell wrapping around Pedro Point and bigger waves breaking out there. Max was doing his hike/training at the beach so I headed out solo. Went all the way down to the south end where a crowd was getting lefts amidst the spray. There were more surfers out than I’m used to so I went literally all the way south of the crowd. Waited and observed. Paddled for one and a guy on the inside paddled for it too. “Thought you were going to get that,” he said. “Thought you were too,” I answered. He was friendly and on a Wavestorm but turned out to be pretty good. I waited for the right one. Finally it came as a long line from the north. I paddled, caught it and went fast right, then left. Felt my fin hit a rock. Knew it was super shallow with the low tide. When I ended the ride, I was in that boulder rocky section where you can’t really walk. Just have to jump on your board and paddle back out. Waited through some lulls on the outside. Was farther out than everyone else but wanted to wait for a set wave, instead of the inside ones. Got one more good one that went left. After a longer lull, moved closer in and north to see if there were any opportunities there. Didn’t end up getting any there and totally fine with that. Too many whomping-closeouts onto the beach. Came out just as Max was hiking down the beach. Stoked to get those two waves.
#384 / 1:20 (1) / 1.5′ rising / 7′4 Mitsven Egg
5-8 ft- head high to 3 ft overhead
Afternoon Report for SF-San Mateo County: New WNW swell continues to build in this afternoon. Many of the better exposed spots are seeing overhead surf, while winter standouts are producing double to near triple overhead sets. Mavs even a little bigger. Conditions are great with light to moderate offshore easterly wind, mostly clear/sunny skies. Incoming tide.
Short-Term Forecast for SF-San Mateo County: Expect surf to continue building through the rest of the day, peaking tonight. Conditions will remain clean as well. Tide will top out with just a 3.8′ high by 6:10pm.
6ft at 16s W (280°)
6ft at 11s W (266°)
1ft at 3s NW (322°)