Haven’t been out in almost a week – eek! Last week was big due to the SSW swell with reports of 4-6′ with 1′ overhead. Finally got out again today and it was warm (70!), sunny blue skies, and even the ocean was blue. Never seen LM like this. We paddled out and caught some good whitewater/breaking waves. I worked on my paddle techniques some more. Popup still feeling great, but need to be able to spot the best non-closing wave and direction while out in the water. Great to get out, but feeling like I need more info to make more progress. Just want to go left/right on the shoulder!
#17 / 3pm
[2-3 ft.+ knee to chest high and poor-fair conditions.]
[amy’s tofu rancheros (kinda gross today), clif bar on the way down, fresco burrito after]