So stoked to get out today after two weeks on land, small conditions and busy with work in SF. Today was sunny after the marine layer burned off, without wind and tide dropping on an increasing SSW swell. Max was out on his Pumpkin Seed and got two good rides and I was on my HP1. I’ve been eager to get back on my Motorboat, especially after watching the Margaret River contest the past week, but I just needed to get some waves today! Low expectations turned into an awesome session. Wave after wave. Lost track of wave count and time. Ryan was out as well as a friendly group of longboarders and surf team kids. It’s been all WNW this fall and winter so it was nice to see SSW conditions. Got two super fun lefts, lots of rights and one really long right from the outside all the way to the cove. Feel normal and stoked again! This weekend should have more swell. Can’t wait.
#226 / 1:30pm / HP1
[Regional Summary: We have primarily SSW groundswell on tap today, with some secondary/building West swell mixing in. Many of the better exposed spots of the region offer waist-shoulder high waves, while some of the standout summer breaks are seeing head high sets/peaks. Conditions are fairly clean for most areas with just a light surface lump to it and warble. Also, we’re sitting on a higher tide right now, which is swamping many breaks. Tide will gradually drop through the morning and into the afternoon.]
2ft at 15s SSW (202°)
1ft at 12s WNW (285°)
oft at 20s WNW (291°)