Today was another amazing surf day in Bali. We started out this morning during low tide at Kuta (Poppies I or II) and Halfway. Then we headed out for another sesh in the late afternoon during high tide farther up the beach somewhere between Halfway and Legian. A swell hit today and the outside was HH to DOH sets all the way down the beach. While the barrels weren’t as perfect as the reef breaks in Uluwatu, they were as sizeable and fast. The locals were ripping these amazing sections on their shortboards or mini guns. They had to have perfect timing: paddle in, wait for the drop, make the drop and zip through a section in time to kick out just before the wave closed out. The sets seemed to roll in every five minutes or so, with great force and waves breaking both right and left. I ran back to the bungalow to get the camera and try to get some footage, but of course, by the time I made the trek back to the beach, the sets were a bit smaller. Anyway, you can get a slight sense of what I mean from the videos below, but just imagine the waves being overhead to double.
Max had one bad wipeout, but otherwise, we had such a crazy fun time, catching wave after wave. The speed of the waves here, even if they’re waist high, is incredible. So much faster than any wave I’ve been on in either Hawaii or Northern CA. Love it here.
#84 / 11 am
#85 / 5 pm
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