It was already a dream come true to wake up on my birthday in Hawaii with Max, but today’s session proved to be one of my all-time favorites. Rolling waves at rising tide, with the sun breaking through the clouds, and a small weekday crowd at Canoes made for perfect conditions. We paddled farther out than yesterday and waited for the sets to roll in. Unlike yesterday, every wave I paddled for today seemed effortless to catch, with just enough power to send me flying. I got nine sweet, long rides that took me all the way to the inside. On one wave, I rode it until it morphed and I looked over my right shoulder to see the curl breaking and the wave was going a smooth fast left and I felt the wave’s core pick up under my feet. I couldn’t ask for more. It was as if the ocean was just sending me waves knowing that the gift would be treasured. Mahalo.
#94 / 3pm
[1-2 feet with a SSW swell @ 12 seconds. Cool and crisp conditions prevail for southern shorelines today with some small but rippable surf rolling in. Partly sunny in the morning then clearing. A 40 percent chance of showers. Highs 71 to 77. Northeast winds around 10 mph.]