Excited to be back on Oahu. Arrived yesterday and it took a few hours to adjust to the hustle of Waikiki and the heat. The sun was blasting and I was grateful for the breeze. This morning was more moderate and partially overcast with some drops of rain as we had coffee by the beach and checked the conditions at Queens and Canoes. Buster, a surfer and one of the Marriott bellman that we’ve gotten to know, said a typhoon was passing near the islands in the next couple of days and might bring some rain but also swell.
Today looked smaller than yesterday with longer lulls, but we could see some workable lefts on the far outside. It was my first time on the Surf-n-Sea 9’6 performance board and I was feeling a bit cautious, but I was happy to find it already felt pretty good as I paddled out. Max was on his new 10′ Bruce Jones board for the first time. I headed to the outside (right tower) and waited with the rest of the lineup, sitting it out the first set to see what was happening. The sections were fairly small and it was definitely under 15 seconds. There were long lulls and very short sets, but I managed to catch some rides and a sweet long wave near the end that just kept going and going and going. It was great to see Max getting waves on his new board. And as I say every time I’m here, the sun and 79 degree water felt soooo good. Aloha!
#105 / 11:45am
[1-2 ft Very Small mid period swell from the south-southwest. Breezy east-northeast winds, whitecapping conditions with moderate choppy seas. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Moderate SSW swell continues to provide some small but rippable waves for town shorelines to day. Most spots are still seeing waves in the knee to waist high range with some slightly larger sets at channel entrances. Breezy trade winds will produce stiff offshore conditions for town shorelines and side shore choppy conditions for SE facing shores.]