After a week of flatness we were psyched to see a forecast of fair to good (orange on surfline which I never once saw reported for SMC the past couple of years)! The SSW groundswell was moving in this morning and when I checked the surf while having coffee, it looked decent – there were waaaves – such a welcome sight after days of flat lakelike conditions! I suited up first and paddled out with the enthusiasm that comes from being out of the water for several days. There was a group of about 10 guy surfers sitting in the middle and slight farther out. Saw a good wave coming in within 8 minutes or so, turned around, paddled for it and caught it easily, gliding right. It was small but I was stoked! A 20 minute lull ensued and I chatted with an older surfer who had complimented my wave. Max paddled out soon after and we caught a party wave with him on my right, riding the wave on my 10′. Sun came blasting out near the end and the village was festive with prep for the begonia festival. Afterwards we headed to the Chill Out Cafe for breakfast burritos and stopped by a plant sale and got some more succulents. Super warm today too, adding to the endless summer vibe. #beachliferules
#174 / 10am
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: Long-period SSW Southern Hemi swell continues to move in this morning as NW windswell blends in at exposed areas. Inconsistent chest-head high waves show at exposed areas initially. Top breaks see larger sets on occasion. Look for better size as we move through the day and the SSW’er builds in further. Light wind early for clean conditions.]
2ft @ 18s from SSW (199)
1ft @ 4s from WNW (291)