Today was incredible: perfect, fun-size, waist-to-shoulder-high nonstop waves rolling in, sun glistening and a light breeze, and just Max, me and one other friendly surfer (visiting from the foothills of Tahoe with his daughter and grandkids). We caught countless waves – smooth, fast rights that steeped up on the outside of 2nd jetty, were easy to catch, and were long enough to ride all the way past the boulders. I had time to feel the glide and react to the wave, crouch down low, touch the wave, straighten up, kick out, and paddle back out. Waves were so good on the low-tide and rising conditions with SSW swell. The peaceful solitude of being out there with just Max and this perfect break, a light breeze, the refreshing cold water and warm sun, the effortlessness of catching today’s waves, and the sheer fun of riding those waves are still with me hours later.
#185 / 2pm (1.45 hrs) / HP1
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: Inconsistent mix of old WNW and SSW swells continue this afternoon. 2-3′ surf is the norm while best exposed spots hit chest-shoulder high on sets. Winds remain light onshore and conditions are mostly clean to just lightly textured. New, long period WNW swell is just starting to creep up on the buoys so look for that to fill in through the remainder of the day.]
3ft @ 13s from SSW (197)
1ft @ 13s from WNW (287)