Got up early-ish to get to Capitola before high tide and Saturday crowds. Cold this morning before the sun peeped out. The WNW was fading and tide was rising but Max and I got some good waves. My best one was the first, a fast, steep shoulder high right that curved and rose up next to me. The face appeared black in the shadows of the morning sun and the lip was all clear water spraying. Beautiful. I kicked out and dove off the wave before it crashed near the wall. Got a couple of other waves but none were as memorable and did a lot of paddling for ones that broke too far in. Still the best way to start the day. It was just three of us out there – Max, Ryan and me. Max and Ryan swapped boards (Koa 10′ with a 9’6) at the end. The beach was surprisingly empty for a Saturday with sun. Wonder if the SW will pick up tomorrow.
#186 / 9am / HP1
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: Holding West-WNW swell combines with small-scale SW swell that has the decent exposures seeing knee-chest-shoulder high surf. Standouts can still go slightly larger on the sets early on. Light wind now for clean conditions, and the tide hits a 5.13′ high just before 9:30am so expect things to slow down some.]
4ft @ 12s from W (276)
1ft @ 13s from SW (230)
1ft @ 16s from SW (212)
1ft @ 7s from WSW (253)