Wow, today was amazing. Nonstop, perfectly peeling waves coming in regularly on a dropping tide. Lost track of how many waves we rode. With the SSW, you could line up on the outside of 2nd jetty and watch as the peak rose and swung over to meet you. Such a simultaneously relaxing and invigorating session. Think I only missed one wave. Had a fun one where I was on the wrong side of the peak on takeoff and stepped on the tail to swing it over. Another one was a longer ride that connected to another section before ending. Love that feeling.
Max and I swapped the GoPro here and there. It was beautiful, warm weather with no wind and clear skies. It was just us, two other surfers and two SUPs. Everyone was chill and taking turns on waves. Plenty to go around. The older, knee-paddling longboarder had great style – slowly paddling at the last minute right into the peak and popping up and riding down the line. We stayed out for two hours. After we left the beach, the clouds started to roll in and the temperature dropped. More winter storms coming in this week. Glad we soaked in this totally summery day.
#201 / 12:30pm / HP1
[Regional Summary: The new WNW swell and lower/dropping tide has a little more life in the surf this afternoon as the more exposed winter breaks offer up fun size surf in the 3-4′ range. WNW winds prevail so most spots are clean with just a bit of texture/bump at the more exposed spots.]
2ft at 14s SSW (209°)
1ft at 15s WNW (282°)
1ft at 20s WNW (222°)