The past few days of high surf advisory conditions (OB was barreling and 15′) passed and today when we rolled up to the beach, it looked pretty uninspiring with a .5′ low tide. Still some swell, as you could see the lines stretched out in the ocean as you drove down the hill and caught a glimpse of the Pacifica pier, and still some power when the offshore closeouts steepened up and chomped onto the beach. Max has been working out hard for two days getting an early start to Rainier prep. 17 weeks to go. But yesterday he might have overdone it on the stair hiking and his foot was hurting today so he sat it out. I figured I would just go out and sit among the three surfers out front of TB. The guy on the Mayhem red/white 5’9 was getting super short inside rides but that was about it. I walked out to the lineup, said hi to him. Isn’t it great out? He said, beaming. Wanted to see if there were any outside-y ones that weren’t breaking so close to shore. Tried for a couple that didn’t break but then the next one looked doable. Caught it and rode for a bit. Yay, surprised to get a wave. Got several more short ones, occasionally falling off the back. Pop up and the closeout was quick behind you. Seems I’m a bit too far back on my board when I get up. Other than that, feel like I already know this 7’4 Mitsven. So easy to paddle, so fun to maneuver. Love it when a board becomes familiar quickly. Like the HP1, the Revolver, now the Mitsven. Magic boards. Later readjusted and paddled north of TB. Catch a short ride, end up in the shorebreak, wait for the set wave closeouts to end, paddle the short way back out. Fun. One of those days where waves steepened and might closeout right onto shore. Or you might be too far out and the wave isn’t breaking. The streak of offshore winds continues. Love paddling diagonally over bigger lines that are coming from the north or south. Especially when it’s a solitary sesh without anyone near you. Just ducks. The wind. The ocean. Each wave seemingly to be just for you to choose. Even a day that looks below average from shore can turn into an exhilarating session. Today was one of those days!
#378 / 11:40 (1) / .6′ dropping / 7′4 Mitsven Egg
2-4 ft- knee to shoulder high occ. 5 ft.
FAIR TO GOOD CONDITIONS
Morning Report for SF-San Mateo County: Mid-sized W swell fades through the day. Shoulder-head high+ waves result at most exposures. Better winter spots see some well overhead sets through the morning. Winds are light from the E now, allowing for clean conditions. Tide is dropping to a 0.59′ at 12:13pm.