It was sunny when we arrived at the beach with light onshore winds. Conditions looked pretty good (better than the other days) with the rising tide filling in. Some big closeout sets on the north end and a group of surfers catching some in the middle. I opted farther south where there were fewer people and closeouts. Max is still under doctor’s orders to only sit in the flats so he was farther on the inside catching stomach rides on his shortboard. Every time I looked over there he was on another ride. I waited for waves on the outside with two friendly surfers and after paddling for a couple that mushed out and one that pitched, I was psyched to get two nice waves that took me all the way into the shallows. The fog rolled in at some point obscuring the horizon from the lineup and eventually the entire beach. Beautiful.
#144 / 1:30pm
[3-5 ft waist to head high. POOR TO FAIR CONDITIONS. Afternoon Update: Textured/sectiony lines. More size towards the north end of the beach but looks like slightly better shape towards the south end]