Stoked to get out today for a surf after a super busy last week in SF and a lazy weekend at home watching the RoxyPro and avoiding the weekend surf crowds. Saturday had some good swell but there were so many people out. We headed out today around 2′ and rising and the sun popped through warming things up. It was a typical Monday scenario with only four longboarders and just one other shortboarder. Max was trying out the 7′ Black Beauty and I was happily back on my Motorboat after being on my longboard for the past few sessions. We both paddled out to the same spot, sat for a few, saw a set start up, paddled into position, turned and got a wave together! Stoked. The Motorboat felt effortless. This wave was longer than my first the other day. Had time to ride it out, shift my feet. Think I need to move my left foot forward more towards the center to balance it out. I’m realizing that the ones that I catch, I barely remember the takeoff and then bam, I’m suddenly on the wave. Being right at the peak makes all the difference. Today I found the magic center on the Motorboat. It feels completely balanced when I’m paddling in that spot. Now I just need to stay in that spot when I’m paddling on the takeoff :) Got some other split second standups, but that first ride was the best. We chatted with a guy on a Fred Rubble who was super-envious of Max’s Black Beauty. Said he’s wanted one for a while. His voice reminded me of Putty from Seinfeld. Have another busy week this week but hoping to get out again tomorrow. The offer might come through by the end of the week so I’m always cognizant that these free days to surf SC are possibly coming to an end. Carpe diem.
#224 / 1:45pm / 5’4 Motorboat
[Regional Summary: WNW swell continues to wind down while mixing with some background SSW swell. Waves remain fun size with 3-5′ surf at good spots and some slightly larger sets at standouts. Tide is now rising and winds are from the West.]
3-4ft
3ft at 14s WNW (287°)
2ft at 14s SSW (199°)
1ft at 0s N (0°)