Beach was practically empty this morning and only a handful of desperado surfers out. We paddled out near TB in small, choppy conditions with waves breaking on shore. A guy that pulled up next to us said OB was a mess. On the outside, lots of bumps rolled in and some were steep but either looked like closeouts or weren’t breaking until shore. Still, Max and I were stoked to get some short, fast ones on our new boards at the beginning of the sesh. My Revolver felt awesome. Just as easy to paddle and catch waves as my HP1. I caught two memorable ones: a good right and left and turned while dropping down the face – woo! Felt fast and steady on the new board. Saw Max catch a couple all the way into the beach.
#268 / 9:30am / 8′ Revolver
[Regional Summary: Small mix of NW windswell and easing South groundswell. Surf generally hangs around waist high or less throughout the region (1-3′). Onshore wind is steady for open exposures, especially for OB. Tide is dropping through the afternoon.]
2-3 ft
3ft 5s WNW (303°)
2ft 8s WNW (309°)