Conditions were supposed to be about the same as yesterday, with a bit more of the South swell starting, but it sure felt different! I got a few short rides but mostly, I spent time trying to figure out where to position myself in a workable section. Got pitched a couple of times and felt the cross currents were making things really unpredictable. Still, it was a beautiful sunny Saturday at the beach and we had fun. When I got out to check out another spot, I saw a tiny little boy (probably seven or eight) nailing what looked like 5′ rights by the Jetty. Ah! Wish I’d learned to surf when I was still a kid. :)
#79 / 4:15pm
[2-3 ft‚ Light and variable west-northwest winds with smooth seas. Small long period swell from the west. 1ft @ 14s from SW (214). REGIONAL SUMMARY: A mix of NW windswell and S/SSW energy produces waist-shoulder-head high surf this morning, while standout breaks occasionally hit the overhead mark. Conditions stay a bit funky overall due to light onshore wind.]