Today was low tide and good SSW perfection. Nonstop waves and sets rolled in every two minutes. We only had an hour to surf but that was a jam-packed hour! Catch a wave, ride it right, paddle back out, catch another one. The first couple of waves were short, fast rights but the one at the end was steep, fast and long, ending way over past the boulders. Love getting long rides all the way over there and not having to paddle back out through the set. Well, did that once too and it was a thrill and a workout. So great being back on my 9′ board today. So familiar and easy. Max got some great rides too. Great sesh!
Sea otter hanging out.
#184 / 12pm / HP1
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: Mix of SSW and WNW swells offer waves mainly around the 2-4′ zone for the better exposed breaks. Standout spots produce occasional SSW sets up to chest-head high. Surface conditions have a little texture/bump to it from the WSW flow, but staying semi-clean for the most part. Also, we’re hanging around a mid-high tide right now.]
3ft @ 12s from SSW (199)
2ft @ 13s from WNW (289)
2ft @ 14s from SSW (196)
<1ft @ 4s from W (265)