Back on Oahu! It’s been a long six months and even longer two months of work stress, all culminating in a good opportunity just this past week. With a big sigh of relief and excitement, we wrapped things up at work on Wed, leaving the cold and rain in SF. On the plane yesterday when the last day of Pipe Masters was finally called as they waited for some swell. Arrived in Waikiki, had some lunch, checked in, and went over to Aloha Board Shop for Max where he got a beautiful yellow and orange 9’2 Mitsu (3″+ thick). Had our first relaxing night in warm weather.
This morning we woke up pretty early excited to get up and go surfing! Ate a couple of bananas and headed down to the beach. Loving the warm weather with some overcast skies. My old friend, the In the Pink Takayama was there and Ray only charged me $15 for the whole sesh. Such a fun surf, too. More swell than we expected. Some crowds but no more than your usual weekend. Got a ride right away and was thrilled to be standing up after so many weeks out of the water. Pure fun the rest of the time with only one lull. Waves were regular and easy to catch. Got a super long right, with a steep-no-wave-face drop, made it, pulled up right in front of the curl and zipped along so fast all the way in. Catching long ones from the outside, swooping through the inside surfers, cruising with speed. Paddling out through the sets was a work out, but surprised I was in better shape than I thought after weeks out of the water. We shifted from the left tower towards the middle, evading the crowd as it gathered and looking for empty spots. Surfed until we were tired. Max loved his new board and got some great waves. We both came in super stoked!
#361 / 10:40 (1.2) / .5′ rising / 9’3 Yellow Takayama
1-2 ft- knee to thigh high occ. 3 ft.
FAIR TO GOOD CONDITIONS
AM Report and Short-Term Forecast for the South Shore: Small out of season SSW swell slowly starting to fill in this morning for town shorelines. For now waves are in the knee to waist high range with some slightly larger sets at select locations. Watch for some bigger sets to fill as the day progresses. Sunny. Isolated showers in the afternoon. Northeast winds around 10 mph shifting to the southeast up to 10 mph in the late morning and afternoon. Chance of rain 20 percent.
2-3ft
1ft at 16s SSW (196°)
1ft at 12s S (189°)
1ft at 10s SE (144°)