Nola on a small inside wave when we first arrived. Started out small but picked up and turned on as the tide dropped.
Today was so good! Thought we might be too close to low tide but it turned out to be perfect. Started out smallish but then really turned on with 5-6 waves per set, easy to catch long rides. On one shoulder high wave, I could’ve pulled tighter into the face, crouched down and gotten a cover up. Max and I were stoked with a smaller Saturday crowd than yesterday. Chatted with Nola. Lots of friendly longboarders out. It seemed like most people were sitting too far out. Max and I and a few others hung on the 2nd peak inside of the kelp and caught nonstop fun rides. I lost count after six. Stoked! One was a pretty steep drop and I made a much faster, tighter turn right than usual. A surfer dad and his kid were down by the cove and I saw him pointing at me as I went down the line. We shared the lineup with a sea otter who was busy devouring a crab while doing spins in the water. Today’s weekend, summery mood at the beach meant lots of families and little kids lined up on the beach to take a photo with surfing Santa and his reindeer helpers standing in front of longboards. Capitola is so cute.
#196 / 1:40pm / HP1
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: New NW(290-300) swell on the rise today as fun-sized SSW swell holds. We’re off to a pretty soft/weak start though as the tide creeps up to a 5.43′ high at 7:18am and really slows down most areas. Good breaks see knee-waist high waves and larger sets to chest high. Top spots hit shoulder high on occasion. Size/shape improve as the tide drops through the morning. Light wind early for clean surface conditions.]
3ft @ 13s from WNW (299)
1ft @ 13s from SSW (197)
1ft @ 8s from WNW (285)