July 4th activity in the ocean.
Slept in, had veggie moco locos at the Barefoot Cafe on the beach and did some shopping before heading out for an afternoon surf. Waikiki was in full-on July 4th mode today, with families grilling and picnicking at Kapiolani Park and the ocean full of activity: the canoe regatta, party boats on the outside blasting techno, crowds of people on pool floaties out in the lineup, sunbathing or drinking. The waves had seemed good when we did our surf check from the lanai, with seemingly regular sets but after the first set when we paddled out, a long 45 minute lull ensued. After laughing at all strange activity in the water, we moved inside and after a few, I finally saw a wave curling in from the far right. I paddled to see if it was working, moving inside when that wave flattened out under me. Went for the next one, angled left and caught a nice ride with some face time. Stoked! I was starting to think I wouldn’t include today’s session if I didn’t at least paddle for a wave :) After that, I got a couple of short ones lined up to the left tower and closer in. There was definitely more swell and size today than yesterday but by then it was starting to close out so we headed in. Max got an conveyor belt wave in all the way to the beach at the end. Fun wacky surf sesh.
Veggie moco loco
#238 / 4pm / Mitsu 9’1
3-4′ @ 12 seconds SSW 194.