Decided to do a double sesh. Split a veggie burger at Mahaloha burger. Max opted to swing by Koa and get a 9’6 Schaper (Bonga Perkins model) so he could get some waves easily (not as easy on the Po :) Looked like there were a million people out in the water by the afternoon. Went to our left tower spot and after a couple of minutes of sitting, a set came through and we both caught the same awesome party wave – I went left and Max went right. Such a great left with speed and the wave next to me. A long one all the way into the sandy spot. Stoked! After that, long lull ensued and we just hung out enjoying the warm water. I got another one from the same lineup later on. This time, a long straight one that veered right for a bit. Max also wore his prescription sunglasses for the first time and he could see! Wow, never realized he couldn’t see distant lines forming. A revelation. Fun, long day in the ocean. Tired and happy.
#332 / 2 (1) / 2′high / 9’ Takayama
1-2 ft- knee to thigh high occ. 3 ft.
FAIR CONDITIONS